Crates are kind, not cruel, for new dogs

By Dr. Beth Leermakers

Want to save a life this summer? Foster or adopt a shelter dog or cat. The Dallas, Fort Worth, Mesquite, Arlington and most other North Texas city shelters are full and forced to euthanize healthy, adoptable dogs and cats to make space for incoming animals. 

Dogs are den animals, and they feel safe in a crate.
Photo courtesy of Michigan Humane Society

Here’s what you need to know and do to bring home a shelter dog and make the transition as stress-free as possible.

What to Take to the Shelter

A collar — preferably a “martingale” collar that a dog can’t slip out of. Some shelters don’t send the dogs home with a collar, and you’ll need one to tether the dog in your car. 

A sturdy slip leash. Invest in a heavy-duty version of the slip leads used in vet clinics. A frightened dog may slip out of its collar on the way to/from your car. If you’re not using a martingale collar, a slip lead is the safest way to handle your new charge. I use the Mendota slip leashes (available in several colors through Amazon or Chewy.com). 

What You’ll Need Before You Bring a Dog Home

A wire crate. Before I started fostering dogs, I thought it was mean to put a dog in a crate. I became a believer after I used a crate to house train a foster dog that wasn’t getting the hang of going to the bathroom outdoors. Dogs are den animals, and they feel safe in a crate. I feel better knowing that my new foster dog isn’t chewing my furniture, eating something harmful or having accidents in my house when I’m at work. 

The crate should be big enough for the dog to stand up, turn around and stretch out. My 65 lb. dogs use 42-inch wire crates. Hollywood Feed sells sturdy 2-door wire crates at great prices. Make the crate comfortable by lining it with towels, a blanket, bath mat or dog bed (when you know she won’t destroy it). The crate should also have a water bowl and a few toys to occupy your pup. 

There are many online articles about crate training your dog. The dog will probably cry or bark initially. If you wait it out, the dog usually settles down as she learns she is safe and will get out regularly. 

Getting the Dog 

Home Safely 

I put shelter dogs in a crate in my SUV for a safer, cleaner ride home. Crating a dog makes clean up easier if the pup throws up or has an accident. And I don’t have to worry about the dog trying to climb in my lap. Having a 70-lb dog knock my car out of gear while I’m tooling along LBJ is a scary experience. Been there, done that, don’t care to repeat it. 

If a crate won’t fit in your car, you should tether (tie) the dog so he can’t move around the car. This is where the collar comes in. If you tether the dog, a regular (not slip) leash works better. 

When you get home, close the garage door before you take the dog out of your car. I hear too many tragic stories about scared dogs who slip out of their collar and run away when they’re getting out of the car. If you don’t park in a garage, be sure the slip leash is tight around your dog’s neck (not his belly) before you take him out of the car. 

Give Your Dog at Least Seven Days to Decompress

With all the noise, smells and activity, shelters are very stressful. Your new foster or adopted dog needs time (at least 7 days, but sometimes up to 2-3 weeks) to relax, sleep and decompress from shelter life. 

Day 1 (or 2) is too soon to take your pup to PetSmart or invite the whole family over to meet him. I don’t bathe a new dog for the first few days, since bath time can be stressful. I don’t want the dog to have to worry about anything (other dogs, meeting new people, stressful activities) while he’s settling into my home. 

Separate the New Dog 

From Resident Pets

If you have other animals in your home, keep the new dog separate from them. Put the newbie in his crate in a separate room if possible (a bathroom or laundry room works fine). If you don’t have a spare room, set up the crate in a room that you can block off with baby gates. You don’t want your resident dogs bothering the new kid in his crate. 

The shelter dog will sleep a lot the first few days. Take the new dog out of his crate every few hours for a walk, potty break and/or play time. To help with house training, take the dog outside immediately after he comes out of his crate. Don’t let him be loose in the house until he goes to the bathroom outside. If he doesn’t “go” within 10-15 minutes, put him back in his crate and try again a bit later. Put your resident dogs in a separate room while the new dog is out of his crate. Dogs get to know each other by smelling (urine in the yard), then seeing (the dog walk by at a distance) and finally by touching each other. 

If you don’t have other dogs, the decompression period is easier. But you should still put the dog in his crate and let him rest. If you have children, they may want to play with the new pup right away. Too much activity can be stressful, and the dog needs some down time. Wait a week or two before you introduce the dog to your extended family. 

Establish a Routine 

Dogs thrive on structure and predictability. My foster dogs know the daily routine: walk (one at a time while the others stay in their crates), play outside, eat breakfast go back in their crates when foster mom leaves for work. 

By giving your shelter dog time to settle into his new environment and routine, you’re setting him up to succeed. Then you won’t have to return him to the shelter two days after adopting him. If you’re interested in fostering a Dallas Animal Services dog, visit bedallas90.org/foster/. Or email me ([email protected]) and I’ll help you find a temporary or longer-term foster opportunity that works for you.