By Richard Lannen
The interior of Hinodeya is much like any Japanese restaurant in Dallas. It is clean and straightforward, with plenty of wood paneling and, at 6:30 p.m., already slammed with a severe dinner rush. Word has gotten around town about lower Greenville being the home to the next spawn of the famous 130-year-old ramen shop from Japan.
The menu is short and concise, listing four types of ramen and a handful of small starters to add depth to the selections. The Gyoza is pan-fried well, leaving a perfectly crispy bottom but not much flavor to accompany the texture. Also enjoyable, I found the takoyaki to be the most similar to the traditional takoyaki I’ve had in Osaka, albeit in need of more of sauce. The “crispy” chicken kara-age, however, is the most disappointing starter listed. The chicken was by no means crispy. It was soft and greasy outside yet dry inside, and the matcha salt that accompanied it did nothing to remedy the problems.
Truthfully, the starters are not why I have come to Hinodeya. In reality, I have come to try their highly boasted dashi-based broth. Unlike tonkatsu (pork) broth, which is what most of us in the United States are familiar with, dashi broth has a much lighter and more refreshing flavor. While it may be less filling, it is rich in umami.
Just like any traditional ramen restaurant, the ramen is prepared quickly and served piping hot. The house ramen is as abundant in flavor as it is in toppings. Bamboo shoots, green onions, sesame seeds, pork, seaweed and a soft-boiled egg adorn the bowl. The pork was cooked well and served in a generous portion but lacked the traditional char I have come to expect.
However, hiding underneath the toppings was the real star of the dish, a bevy of springy and sumptuous noodles. The thick and bouncy noodles outshone everything else the bowl had to offer. I caught myself scrambling to find any remnants of a noodle buried at the bottom of the dish.
After swiftly polishing off the house ramen, I turned my attention to an order of spicy miso ramen. Unfortunately, I fell prey to the law of diminishing returns. I found the spicy miso to be lacking in richness and flavor yet plentiful in a vapid chili oil that left my tongue coated and unable to taste much else.
Also available is vegan ramen delightfully dubbed, creamy ramen, made from shiitake mushroom broth and served with spinach noodles, as well as rotating seasonal ramen.
Being a fan of Japanese cuisine and culture, I am always pleased to see the number of quality Japanese style restaurants grow in the city. Every addition further expands the ever-evolving palate of Dallas. While the list of ramen shops contending for the top spot in Dallas grows by the day, Hinodeya is making a strong case for their place on that list. If nothing else, Hinodeya offers a unique and delicious bowl of ramen, and I expect to find myself back soon, still digging for that last bite of noodles.
Hinodeya Ramen & Bar Dallas Greenville
2023 Greenville Ave., Suite 130
Dallas, 75206
Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, Sunday
6-10 p.m.
Friday & Saturday
6-11:00 p.m.
Lunch 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m.
Closed Tuesdays