The Kings of Turkey Legs reign over Fair

By Warren Black

There would be no argument that BBQ is the official food of Texas, and no one represents BBQ at the State Fair of Texas (Fair) like the king of BBQ — Smokey John’s BBQ. 

John “Smokey” Reaves was a career entrepreneur from the time he turned 18. He started in the home loan business, and then began buying and selling houses. This career path naturally led him into the roofing business and the insurance business. He offered turn key homes, home loans, roofs and insurance. He would say to his clients: “What are you doing with your time? Are you spending it, or are you investing it.”

Smokey began smoking turkeys and hams as gifts to his loan customers. His customers and friends liked the smoked meats so much they encouraged him to start catering. In 1976, Smokey began as an intern at a restaurant to learn the business. He wore coveralls over his business clothes while he was smoking meat, but the bankers he visited during the days knew his secret from the unmistakable smell of the delicious product emitting from him.

Smokey opened his first BBQ stand at the Fair in front of the Cotton Bowl Plaza in 1978. He was the second black vendor allowed to sell at the Fair. Smokey John’s BBQ sells brisket, ribs, chicken and, of course, turkey legs. Smokey John’s BBQ has now grown into a five-location family legacy at the Fair. 

Last year, Smokey John’s sold 50,000 turkey legs, 20,000 deep fried Reeses and 40,000 lbs. of brisket. They also have the option to have the turkey legs dipped in BBQ sauce. Smokey would say, “You don’t need teeth for our beef, but you need a bib for our ribs.” In 2013, his sons Juan and Brent — The Boys, as they are affectionately referred to — took over operation of the family business. 

Smokey John’s opened a year-round operation located at 1820 W. Mockingbird Ln. just West of Love Field near Harry Hines. Smokey’s faith was paramount in his life. At the Mockingbird restaurant, he started a weekly men’s Bible study on Tuesdays during the lunch hour. When the wives of those men saw the change in their husbands, they wanted to be part of the study, too. Attendees knew to get there early if they wanted to find a seat. Smokey was known to say, “Pray for me — you need the practice, and I need your prayers.” In January of 2019, The Dallas Morning News dubbed the Lunch Bible Study the “Holy Spirit Hospital.” At that time, more than 100 people attended the weekly bible study. 

Today, Juan and Brent carry on the family legacy at the Fair. Smokey John’s BBQ sells no alcohol at their stands or their restaurant. Smokey just felt like he shouldn’t sell it. The brothers consider the Fair a family tradition and a family reunion of sorts. All the other Fair vendors are friends and family. Smokey thought the Big Tex Choice Awards were for “weird” foods and were silly. The Boys were finalists in 2016 with their Bacon Burger Dog Slider on a Stick. Reaves died in 2019 one day before the Boy’s won the Big Tex Choice Award for their Big Red Chicken Bread. They know Smokey was looking down from Heaven with pride at that time and continues to do so today.

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