Real Easter bunnies are not for children

By Dr. Beth Leermakers

Thinking of giving your child a bunny for Easter? Opt for a chocolate or stuffed one instead. 

Real rabbits require more care and exercise than most people realize—and they’re not ideal companions for young children. Bunnies live 10-12 years, have strong personalities and can be destructive, digging and chewing. 

Many people think rabbits are easy to care for, spending most of their time in their cage. 

In fact, rabbits need several hours per day of out-of-cage exercise. This means that you must train them to use a litter box. While rabbits are trainable, litter box training requires consistency and patience.  

Rabbits are ground-dwelling prey animals with fragile skeletons. Because of this, they dislike being held and cuddled and are frightened by energetic children, even when the child means well. Bunnies are uncomfortable being held far above the ground where they can’t control their own activities. Forcing a bunny to be held reinforces his natural fear that you’re a predator trying to restrain him, and it’s dangerous for the rabbit and child. A struggling, kicking rabbit may break his back or leg or scratch his holder.

While rabbits aren’t suitable for children, bunnies make good pets for the right people. Rabbits are highly intelligent, social and affectionate (on their own terms, which means cuddling on the ground). If you’re thinking about adopting a rabbit (visit petfinder.org), here are a few pointers. 

Consider adopting a bonded pair. Bunnies are social creatures that live in groups. Most rabbits prefer to have a companion. Adopting more than one rabbit can be tricky. Not all rabbits get along, and serious injuries can occur quickly if they fight. Neutered male-female pairs tend to bond most easily, though same-sex pairs can also work — if both are neutered.

Be patient when befriending your new rabbit. Meeting a person is scary for a shy, fearful animal who is hardwired to watch for predators. Your new pet doesn’t realize that you’re a friend, not a foe. He’s not sure if you’re going to put him in a cage forever or eat him for dinner. You must earn his trust, and that may take hours, days, weeks or even months. 

When you bring home a new rabbit, spend time with him in a private, quiet room without any other pets or distractions. Lie down on the floor and let the rabbit out of his hutch, which should be on ground level, so you don’t have to touch him every time he comes out. Hold a treat (apple, carrot or banana slices or a pinch of oats) in your hand. Then wait for the rabbit to approach you. If the bunny shows interest in the treat, hold it while he nibbles on it instead of letting him take it back to the hutch. 

If the rabbit is very shy, do NOT reach out and pet him. Let him sniff you, hop on you and get to know your smell. If children are present, they should also lie on the floor quietly and wait for the bunny to approach them. They should NOT chase the rabbit or try to touch him. Eventually, when he realizes that he can move freely without being touched or grabbed, he will learn that he can trust you.

Detect emotions by observing body language. Rabbits tend to be more stoic than cats or dogs, so it can be hard to tell when your rabbit is upset. Pay close attention to his body language and behavior to interpret how he’s feeling. 

Ear position. Rabbits’ ears are expressive, telling you when they’re alert, relaxed or upset:

• Ears pinned flat back with a tense body: the bunny is scared, angry or upset. 

• Ears flat back with a relaxed body: the bunny is resting. 

• Ears that are straight up: the bunny is alert or curious.

Screaming. Screaming is a sign of extreme terror or excruciating pain in a rabbit. If you hear your rabbit scream, immediately take him to a veterinarian who treats rabbits (considered exotic animals). 

Grunting. Grunting is an angry reaction to a person or rabbit, indicating that the rabbit feels threatened or territorial. Like a dog’s growl, a rabbit’s grunt is a warning to back off before he escalates to scratching or biting. Rabbits are creatures of habit who like things “just so,” so they may grunt when you rearrange their cage while you’re cleaning. 

Nipping or biting. Rabbits may gently nip you to get your attention or tell you they’re agitated. They may bite if you grab or surprise them, or if they have poor close-up vision (so they think your approaching finger is food or a predator). To stop a rabbit from biting, cry out shrilly when you’re bitten. Rabbits do this when they are hurt. 

Chinning. Rabbits rub their chins, which have scent glands, on household items to mark them with their scent. This territorial behavior also helps them keep track of where they’ve been. 

Flopping. When a rabbit “flops” he might appear to have a brief attack and will suddenly fall or flip over onto his side, exposing his belly. If the rabbit doesn’t appear to be struggling, flopping is a sign of happiness and relaxation

Hopping or dancing. These are signs of joy. Dancing may include leaping, doing a binky (jumping straight up and spinning) or racing around the house.  

While the appeal of a fluffy bunny at Easter is undeniable, remember that rabbits are a long-term commitment, not a fleeting holiday novelty. That stuffed rabbit may be a better choice. Happy Easter! 

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