Army vet goes ‘all the way’ with Fair food

By Warren Black

One of the most publicized parts at the State Fair of Texas (Fair) are the Big Tex Choice Awards given out each year to several food categories. These awards can more than double a food vendor’s sales and give them years of recognition. One such vendor is James Barrera of Barrera’s. 

Thirty years ago, Barrera operated a food trailer in Dallas and Grand Prairie that traveled around to art shows and special events serving hot dogs and nachos. He had worked for years in the food service industry in Las Vegas at the Paris Hotel, in Dallas at Reunion Hotel and, later, as the food and beverage manager of the Anatole Hotel, the largest hotel at the time in Dallas. It was always his dream to get a booth at the Fair. 

With his tenacious attitude, Barerra was persistent and relentless in contacting the Fair. Barrera said that, after enough calling and enough praying, one day in July of 1997 — with only 90-days’ notice before the fair was to start — he received a call from the Fair. The rest is history. 

Barrera’s menu has changed throughout the years, going from Authentic Mexican Tacos, Steak and Potato Tacos and Chorizo Nachos, to the award-winning samplings of today. 

When asked why he is constantly adding new items, Barerra said, “You can’t serve what you like; you have to serve what the customers like” and that he does. Barrera’s stand is famous for several Big Tex Choice Awards, including in 2005 when he won one of the very first awards ever presented for the “Most Creative” for his “Viva Las Vegas Fried Ice Cream.” It is still one of the most popular items he serves. 

Part of life for Barerra is keeping his eyes open and his thinking cap on looking for creative ideas that might just strike gold at the Fair and win another Bid Tex Choice Award. For 16 more-years, Barerra tried idea after idea to find another winner. 

One such occasion was when, while out of town, he heard two men talking about one of their abilities to make anything out of metal. Barerra had been thinking of a few ideas using an armadillo shaped mold. 

He introduced himself to the man who really had little interest and no time to entertain Barerra’s ideas. Using his tenacious personality — and a lot of persistence — Barerra talked the man into producing the armadillo shaped brand mold that is the foundation of his 2021 Big Tex Choice Award for “The Armadillo.” 

“The Armadillo” is a bunuelo (Mexican charro like tortilla) shaped like an armadillo with a creamy cookie butter center and a powdered sugar and powdered butter topping. He also uses an armadillo print on his steak or chicken quesadillas. 

Year after year, the creative juices flow at Barrera’s. This year, some of the contest submissions were the “Ube Rice Cream Crunch,” which is a delicious and refreshing tropical delight; Cherish Erbert Champaigne, a frozen Cherry Champagne drink; and Orange Julia’s Beermosa, a frozen orange beer. 

Barerra, a military veteran, says he is pulled by passion — not pushed by motivation — because he lives by the 82nd Army Airborne’s motto — “All the Way.”

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