Funnel Cake Queen leaves lasting legacy

By Shari Goldstein Stern

Let’s say your family is well organized enough to maintain a list of must-have “Fair food” in advance of every trip to the annual State Fair of Texas (SFOT). Now say you’re obsessed enough to fold that list with the leftover coupons for rides and food, still in your wallet since 1999. You have one of those appetites that ensure you will follow the list and get to everything. 

First stop: Fernie’s Original Funnel Cakes, a SFOT staple since 1971, when Wanda Locke “Fernie” Winter Sykes introduced Fairgoers to the light, flaky delicacy. This year’s occasion will be missing one of Fairgoers’ favorites, the Queen of the Funnel Cake, who passed away in June at a prolific 95 years of age. Fernie will remain in the hearts of thousands who had the pleasure of knowing her.

Also prior to the return of the 2021 SFOT, Fernie’s family, friends and loyal SFOT colleagues gathered at Fernie’s State Fair of Texas Funnel Cake’s location, The Dock restaurant, to celebrate its founder’s memorable life. An important question: “Did Fernie know about the Fair’s 2021 comeback season before she passed away?” Yes, it is a relief to hear that Fernie was aware, and very happy about the news. Significantly, the announcement was made on her birthday.

Not only in D/FW but Texas-wide, there are fairgoers passionate enough to make their annual trek to the Fair if only to have their funnel cakes, and they think about them all year. 

Those lucky enough to have known Fernie will tell you about the adoration she felt for her family, first, and then her distinctive company and award-winning product. She was an inventive businesswoman who knew her craft well.

Fernie enjoyed her original “stomping grounds” in East Dallas and Lakewood, where she proudly graduated from Woodrow Wilson High School in 1944.  

Shortly thereafter, she joined her parents at the family businesses, The Locke Cafe in Deep Ellum, and subsequently the Lake Highlands Sun Rexall Soda Fountain. Both were institutions with the Dallas lunch crowd and the beginning of her more than distinct career in the food and hospitality industry.

Fernie was always held in high regard by her dad’s huge LaBarba family. According to Tony Todora, part-owner with his siblings of the historic Parkit Market on Greenville at University and a member of the LaBarba family: “Fernie was quite the celebrity. If someone wanted to know about anyone in Dallas she knew them.”

Todora continued: “Fern was an icon. I loved that she always remembered me, no matter how few and far between the family functions were. She was always a gracious, open, giving person. She could tell you so many stories at any time.”

“Fern’s daughters worshiped her,” Todora added. “They kept her as happy as they could before her death. She was surrounded by family and friends when she passed.”  

One of Fern’s four daughters, Christi LaBarba Erpillo, who, with her sister Joanne Czerwinski as cashier, run the Dock said, “Thank God she had a wonderful team of caretakers. She was very peaceful.”

“Until 2019 Fernie never missed a Fair. For the past six months the thought of the Fair’s upcoming return gave her a reason to be vibrant, as when Texas Country Reporter recently interviewed her for a story on the funnel cake maven,” said her daughter Erpillo.

The driver of the golf cart taking her around the Fairgrounds was thrilled when everyone shouted, “There goes Fern!” They got as excited as when Elvis thrilled fairgoers.

Fernie lived at The Reserve at North Dallas Independent Living for eight years, where she became known as the “Queen of The Reserve.” Erpillo said, “She started in assisted care, then moved into independent living. After she left, she wanted to go back to The Reserve. My sisters and I had full or part time jobs in addition to caring for her. Now there is such a void.” According to members of The Reserve’s staff: “She was one of the most generous, appreciative residents we have had here. We all felt lucky to know and keep her safe.”

The many who knew Fernie also understood the passion she brought to the table with her memorable gifts of devotion and determination. She was the ideal mom, successfully raising a loving, blended family. They always came first and having all of them involved in the family business she created was a priority. 

The Dock at SFOT was her happy place. The entire staff loved and respected Fernie throughout the years. They treated her like a queen. Before Fernie became wheelchair bound, she greeted customers from her “royal” tapestry, wingback chair, and her greeting didn’t change when it came from her “royal” wheelchair. 

Fairgoers counted on seeing her there when they dropped by for her famous peaches and cream, roly poly, carrot cake, beloved funnel cake and much more. One of Fernie’s generous gifts was feeding officers of the Dallas Police Department every day of their shifts. Some of the endeared officers carried her at her funeral.

Fernie adored her four daughters and son, along with a combined 20 grandchildren and great grandchildren.

She leaves thousands of fairgoers and fans, many light, sweet memories of the Fair and her own, one-of-a-kind self.

Fernie and her husband, John started square dancing in 1958 and were instrumental in bringing the National Square Convention to Dallas in 1965. In 1961, they became round dance callers and instructors and created dance clubs throughout North Texas. The couple was selected to perform a solo exhibition dance at Governor Preston Smith’s inauguration. 

With fellow callers, they started their own record label, Chaparral Records. In 1989, they were recognized by the North Texas Callers Association as Lifetime Members. 

In 1988, they received a Gold Record for their choreography and cuing for “I’m a Standby Your Woman Man.”

State Fair of Texas’ Vice President of Food and Beverage Melanie Linnear expressed this sentiment: “As a longstanding concessionaire of the Fair for more than 50 years, she [Fernie] left an impression on fairgoers, fellow vendors and our staff alike. She is greatly missed. You could find Fernie hanging out at The Dock location during the Fair, greeting hungry Fair fans with a warm smile.” 

The colleague and friend added: “Even at 95 years young, Fernie still made it out to Opening Day of the 2019 State Fair. She was a fiery, strong woman and her dedication to the State Fair meant everything to us. 

As the person credited with bringing funnel cakes to Texas, she was known as the Funnel Cake Queen and her legacy will live on through her daughters. They have continued operating the Winter Family Concessions business out at the Fair year after year and plan to return bigger and better than ever before for the 2021 event to honor their mom.” 

Don’t you just wish you had powdered sugar on your T-shirt right now? See you in September!

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